Whoever cast Virgil Abloh’s final, and predictably mournful, collection for Louis Vuitton, for instance, must have had an eye on GmbH’s runways.ĭiversity is a GmbH signature. At GmbH, Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby produced a finely tailored collection that seemed destined, as usual, to influence designers at much larger houses. Nichanian substituted for a cravat and knot it outside his shirt.Įlsewhere on the roster were designers with all kinds of promise, but also with positions and ideas. Davis, though, would certainly take one of those silk cashmere scarves Ms. Here one was rendered in a two-button calfskin with a wide leg that made you wish Miles Davis were alive to rock one. Nichanian spoke to some journalists about her intended “dandy effect.” Conceivably that means a collection generally pitched toward the younger guys everyone in the business has been trying to advance from hoodies to suits. The presentation was held in a national storehouse for furniture and against a backdrop of projected tapestries from state collections, and before it, Ms. (Well, sort of: The company’s vaunted Birkin, the Brabus of handbags, has now been joined by the Rock, a new and jacked-up version ostensibly for guys.) Season after season, she makes clothes suitable for the clientele of a brand that started in 1837 as a saddlery and remains a purveyor of goods for a traditional carriage trade.
Nichanian, too, plays on these French idioms, though at an even more elevated (and pricier) level. Jones’s City of Light was conjured as a place of Gallic elegance and refinement with a set that not only reproduced the gilded Pont Alexandre III bridge for its backdrop but went on to mine just about every French cliché in the postcard rack. Jones detoured to safer territory and, for a 75th-anniversary homage to the house at Dior Men, chose as his destination - drum roll - Paris. (The collection was postponed indefinitely following the Astroworld tragedy.) This time Mr. Last season, it was a collaboration with Travis Scott, inspired by the rapper’s Houston hometown. Jones often operates within a geographic thematic. PARIS - It probably isn’t surprising that a current of conservatism was seen in the men’s wear shows here, a link connecting storied labels like Dior and Hermès, where the designers Kim Jones and Véronique Nichanian produced fall collections that highlighted their design chops by doubling down on heritage.Īn inveterate and lifelong traveler (he has often said he works mainly to bankroll his wanderlust), Mr.
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